Boot and shoe manufacture



Feb. 22 1927. 1,618,754

H. A. EVANS BOOT AND SHOE MANUFACTURE Filed A1122. 12, 1925 mmwwzwxw Wk /8 //V|/f/Y7 0P Hora/cl Abram Evans ATTOP/Vf) Patented Feb. 22, 1927.

UNITED STATES.

PATENT OFFICE.

HAROLD ABRAM EVANS, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR, BY DIRECT AND mnsnn ASSIGNMENTS, 'ro ranco SPECIALTY 00.,

i CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

F LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, A.

BOOT AND SHOE MANUFACTURE.

The present invention, fields of more general usefulness, is more particularly related to the art of boot and shoe manufacture. From a more limited aspect, it relates to shoe uppers havin French-cord binding strips folded aroun their edges, and to methods of making such uppers.

According to" present-day practice, the

I 1 binding strip, after it is sewed to the upper,

and an adjacent portionof the up er, are

.coated with wet cement, after which the a strip is folded around the edge of the sheet to which it is sewed, and the folded'strip is pressed into contactwiththe sheet. Theuse ings, in which Fig. 1 is a section of a shoe upper manufactured according to the present invention, showing a binding strip sewed thereto, priorto the folding operation; Fig. 2 isa similar section showing the binding strip already folded,-and Figs. 3 to 7 are views illustrating a preferred method of manufacturing the improved binding strip of the present invention. I 85 According to the present-day practice, a French-cord binding strip 2 is first'sewed at 12. along the edge 8 of the two' longitudi- "nally disposed edges 8 and 26, to a face 10 of a shoe upper 6, along an edge l of the upper. The upper 6 may be constituted of leather, cloth, or anyother desired material and the binding strip may be constituted of cloth, silk, leather, and the like. The binding strip is usually a grosgrain, galloon or similar fabric having its edges 8 and 26 selvedged.

Itis suflicient to hav'e'the edge 8 alone selvedged, the weaving of this selvedged'edge preventing" the strip from tearing away along the stitches 12. Resulting from the manner in which the sheet and the strip are sewed together, they are generally in-more or less close arallelism, as shown in Wet cement is then applied to the other face 16 of the shoe upper, along the margin near though having suitable woven material.

and stick to pull Fig. 1.

the edge 4, and to the whole face 14 of the strip 2, after which the binding strip is folded around the secured-together edges 4 and 8 and pressed fiat into contact with the face 16.0f the shoe upper. The binding strip is. held in contact with the face 16 by the cement, but the use of the wet cement is a troublesome factor in shoe factories.

According. to the present invention, the binding strip is cemented prior to its introduction into the shoefactory. It is preferred to use a wet cement, gum, or the like. The presence of the cement upon the binding strip prior to its sewing to the shoe upper would cause inconvenience during the sewing noperation causing, among other things, the stock to drag during the sewing. The cement is therefore covered with a cOV- ering strip 19. The covering strip servesthe further function of keeping thecement air tight and preventing its deterioration. This covering strip may preferably 'be'of some After the binding strip 2 has been sewed to-the upper, the covering strip 19 is pulled away to expose the cement upon the'binding strip. The binding strip is then folded in the customary way,

as indicated in Fig. 2. The folding may be done by hand or by machine.

To prevent sewing the covering strip 19 to the shoe upper along with the binding strip 2, the covering strip 19 is caused "to cover a portion only of the face l l of the binding strip. This portion extends'from the free edge 26 of the binding strip to any desired point 18, Figs. 1 and 2. It is thus possible for the sewing needle'to pierce the-portion of the binding strip between the edge 8 and the point 18, which portion is left uncemented. Depending upon the position of the point 18, therefore,'the cement may be'coated over a larger or smaller area of the binding strip, as desired. The point 18 should preferably be chosen such that it will be disposed adjacent to the corner of the shoe upper. The cement will not, then, tendto engage the edge 4 of the shoe upper,

and thus resist the effort of the operator to the strip tightly around the edges 4 and 8, which would result in a baggy fold. Best results are obtained when the edge 4 of the upper engages uncoated portions only of the strlp.

The cement nd the covering strip 19 may w ich is herein chosen for the opening 36 by. a metal be applied to the binding strip 2 in many diii'eient ways, all within the scope of the invention. A preferred method is to feed the binding strip 2, as it is unrolled from a reel 30 between tension rolls or pins 32, and throng a cement pot 34, along the bottom thereof. This bottom is provided with a longitudinally dis osed opening 36 about as wide as the wi th of the binding strip 2, a ortion of which opening is covered with a ongitudinally disposed metal plate38. The cement in the pot 34 rests on the metal plate 38 and is prevented from falling through the plate 40 that is springpressed upward towards the bottom of the cement pot to close the o ening 36. A valve (not shown) may close tiie opening 36 when the apparatus is not in use. The binding strip is fed from the reel30 between the' plates 38 and 40, so that so much only thereof becomes cemented as is exposed in the opening 36. The gum or cement is forcibly caused to adhere to the binding strip by weights (not shown). The partially cemented strip is then passed beyond a knife 41 that scrapes the cement clean and through an oven 42, where the cement becomes partly dried into paste form. After passing through the oven, the binding strip 2 is led to rolls 44. Before it reaches the rolls 44, the ce mented portion thereof becomes covered with the covering strip 19,. led from a reel 46 through a suitable guide 48. The rolls 44 press the strips 2 and 19 firmly together and feed the completed binding strip into areceptacle 50. The completed binding strip is wound into reels and supplied in reel form to the shoe factories.

It will be understood that the invention is etplially applicable to other articles than that urposes of illustration, and the elements of the article need not necemarily be of the relative dimen- SlOIlS shown. It may be desirable, for example, to fold an element of relatively lar e dimension over the edge of an element 0 relatively small dimension. For definiteness, all such elements that are to be folded will be referred to in the claims as the strip and the element about the edge of which the strip is to be folded will be referred to as the. sheet, though the adopted terminolo may not be strictly applicable to the speci c article which may. be under consideration.

The invention is not restricted to the exact embodiment that is illustrated and described herein, but modifications may be made by persons skilled inthe art without departing rom its spirit and scope, ap ended claims. a

gVhatis claimed is:

1. The method of making an article of the class described, which comprises coating one longitudinally disposed marginal portion of as defined in the the strip to the ly removing the covering tape from the coated portion of the strip, whercb sewing of sheet is not hiI1( ered by adhesive material and whereby the margin of tiie strip may be adhesively secured to the s met.

2. The method .of finishing the edge of sheet material, which comprises coating one marginal face of a binding strip with moist. adhesive material while leaving the remain der of thestrip uncoated, applying a temporary covering tape to the coated. portion of the binding strip, leaving the opposite edge of the binding strip uncovered, securing the uncovered edge of the strip to a marginal face of the sheet, removing the covering tape, foldingthe binding strip over the edge of the sheet,- and pressing its coated margin into adhesive engagement with the opposite marginal face of the sheet.

3. hemethod offinishing the edge of sheet material, which comprises coating one marginal face of abinding strip with moist adhesive material while leaving the remainder of the strip. uncoated, permitting the moist adhesive partially to dry, thereupon applying a temporary covering tape tothe coated portion of the bindin strip, securing the uncovered edge of tie strip to a marginal face of the sheet, removing the covering tape, folding the binding strip over the edge of the strip, and pressing its coated margin into adhesive engagement with theooposite mar inal face of the sheet, without necessity of th or moisture to the coated portion ofthe tape.

4. As an article of manufacture, an elongate binding strip, one of the two longitudinal edges of whichis selvedged, the strip havin an adhesivel coated face adjacent the ot er longitudina edge and a temporary covering tape adhesively applied to a partial width of the strip including the coated portion, whereby the selvedged edge of the strip is adapted to be sewed to the edge of a sheet without hindrance from the temporarily covered adhesive.

5. An adhesive tape having a portion of one side extending along. one edge of the tape coated with adhesive and having another portion on the same side which is uncoated with adhesive, and a protective strip of less width than the a portion.

HAROLDABRAM'EVANS.

e application of heat tape for covering said coated 

